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There's no better indicator of the rising fortunes of the Biscayne Boulevard corridor than the debut of this cozy, welcoming wine bar. Some 250 bottles are offered, many served in three-glass "flights" and by the glass, accompanied by a limited menu of cheese, charcuterie, and other easily prepared plates. The simplest dishes tend to be the best, though an unctuous four-cheese soufflé was at once hearty and remarkably light. Caprese salad is creditable, as is a tender (if undersalted) braised lamb shank. Try the custardy white chocolate cake for dessert.