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Can a sprawling suburban temple built to entertain the joys of rabid consumerism really be home to a moderately priced Italian restaurant with the sensibilities of an authentic Tuscan trattoria? Actually yes, if the restaurant is Villagio. Working in a big space (300 seats) off a big menu, chef Francisco Ramirez carefully executes dishes whose focal point is flavor and not flash. Succulent rock shrimp with plump cannellini beans, arugula, radicchio, and tomatoes tossed in a mild balsamic dressing is as delightful as it is elemental. A sizable veal chop thinly pounded and topped with a lusty mélange of roasted potatoes, artichoke hearts and radicchio is even better. The tiramisu is perhaps a little heavy on the mascarpone but delicious nonetheless.