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With its sterile glassed-in views of Biscayne Bay on one side and the kitchen on the other -- and nary a hint of Chinese tchotchkes anywhere -- the setting of this upscale old-timer (opened in 1991) seems more suited to slick rubber chicken fundraising dinners than to ethnic eats. But Chan's is one of Miami's best sources for hard-to-find authentic specialties: real Peking duck (served in two courses: crêpe-wrapped crisp skin and stir-fried meat with veggies); richly flavored Three-cup braised chicken; dynasty squirrel-like fish (Jiangsu-style crisp-skinned fish with spicy sweet-sour sauce, praised by one Qing Dynasty emperor as "the number one dish in the world"); and traditional clay pots, particularly garlicky, ultratender lamb. More inventive are the succulently seasoned yu pan quail with bamboo shoots, served in elegant lettuce cups, and honey walnut shrimp, a giant prawn stuffed with sweet walnuts and sliced like a sushi roll. There's also real sushi, plus standard Chinese choices like General Tso's chicken, but the specialties are the way to go.