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Owners Tim Andriola and Rodrigo Martinez are, respectively, chef and general manager, and both are talented at what they do. This place is consistent -- consistently fine. The casually upscale 120-seat room is defined by warm, contemporary urban design elements and, like the cuisine, conveys an accessible coupling of homespun and high-end. Andriola's cooking is less about wow than Tao: It adheres to a belief in the simple, natural, and honest. Among many winners are sweetbreads with applewood-smoked bacon in a honey-balsamic gastrique; a salad of fried oysters atop frizzy frisée leaves, white beans, and bits of smoky pancetta; tagliatelle, mushrooms, and pulled morsels of unimaginably moist chicken in fontina cream sauce speckled with black truffles; and wispy-crusted pizzas that come to the table steamy-hot from the hearth. Solid service, a great selection of wines and cheeses, and white chocolate soufflé with Chambord sauce are more reasons why Timó, like its soufflé, always rises to the occasion.