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Part of the thrill of dining at the Villa is the opulent ambiance. From the nostalgic splendor of the Moroccan Room to the intimate dining area with Versace-designed Rosenthal china atop tables draped in royal-blue linen, diners know as soon as they enter Casa Casuarina that this dining experience will be singular. Yes, it's pricey, but you can see the money on the plate. A truffled asparagus salad, for instance, includes a warm ricotta flan generously gilded in white truffle shavings and sumptuous morel mushrooms. Snapper ceviche arrives looking like a little psychedelic garden, with delicate herbs sprouting vertically from a ring of raw snapper, pickled key shrimp, minced mango, jalapeño, red onion, candied citrus zest, and crisp coins of taro. Main courses, more substantially portioned, include a luscious pairing of a giant breaded scallop and a petite, melting-soft nugget of veal cheek -- with wilted chicory leaves, beech mushrooms, and a puck-size toasted oat cake accented with cumin and moistened with a broth flecked with capers and golden raisins. The flavors bounce off of and light up the senses like a pinball -- emblematic of talented chef Jeff O'Neill at his boldest and best.