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With its elegantly sweeping curves, polished wood finishes, horseshoe-shape booths, and big band tunes billowing through the air, the warmly illuminated, 290-seat Oceanaire exudes the sophistication and glamour of a 1930s luxury cruise liner. Guests are treated accordingly, meaning first-class service all the way. Ceviche, clam chowder, shrimp cocktail, and sassy salads are all prepared with aplomb, but Oceanaire sails on the strength of its twice-daily (for lunch and dinner) changing menu of fish. Some 20 species are highlighted, some from local waters (cobia, pompano, swordfish), the rest flown in from all over the globe: Scottish salmon, Mediterranean daurade, Bahamian snapper, Carolina striped bass. All are fresh as ocean air and served either grilled or broiled or done up with preconceived sauces and garnishes (like a knockout crab-crusted Costa Rican mahi-mahi in creamy lobster sauce). Sides and desserts are steak house-style -- big, rich, meant to be shared among many. Be certain to make reservations.