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A heady fizz of frivolity practically kisses diners as they enter this self-described American restaurant, bar, and oyster room. It's a great place to hoist a drink and soak in the excitement of a vibrant venue, but the most wondrous part of the Dutch is just how delicious the food is. From the confident beginning induced by a miniloaf of complimentary cornbread flecked with bits of jalapeño, to the final forkful of flaky homemade pie crust, flavors on the plates are consistently and deeply satisfying. A large part of the credit must go to executive chef Andrew Carmellini, who first wowed New Yorkers with his SoHo Dutch. A great way to launch a meal here is via fresh oysters on ice or the "little oyster sandwich" -- a two-bite po'boy (or what might be called a very po'boy). However you choose to start, don't bypass homemade pappardelle noodles with greaseless, luscious lamb ragu, a dollop of sheep's milk cheese, and a brilliant, invigorating touch of fresh mint. Carmellini's roast chicken is tender and bursting with flavors from a medley of accompanying local vegetables. Homemade pie à la mode is the way to go for dessert, although a meringue-covered chocolate devil's food cake beckons as well. The Dutch offers a lively ambiance with great food and drinks.