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This high-end steak house for the high-powered adds some carnivorous class to the downtown riverside scene. A meat locker in the middle of the dining room, where the beef is dry-aged, gives you a good idea of what's on the menu; a 400-plus selection of wine gives you a lot of ideas about what to drink with it. Porterhouses, Delmonicos, and sirloins are all gargantuan, as is the shrimp scampi. Great onion soup and meaty crab-lobster cakes for starters. Cottage fries, onion "strings," and super creamed spinach, scented with garlic, work powerfully well as side dishes. Lunch and dinner.