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After an extensive and expensive renovation, the Conrad Hotel's picture-windowed 25th-floor central atrium has reopened as The Bar at Level 25. And despite the space's elegance, it is now an inviting, locals-friendly neighborhood bar, as its policy of free valet parking (with stamped ticket) attests. It's also far more than a watering hole, serving three squares daily. Best times to sample the more informal fare offered by chef Michael Gilligan, of the hotel's fine-dining spot Atrio, are Sunday brunch -- an elaborate all-you-can-eat-and-drink prix fixe spread -- and evenings, when the menu encompasses raw bar selections plus pintxos, Basque for tapas. But the food's scope spreads beyond Spain, with Asian- and Latin-inspired selections such as codfish esqueixada (a refreshing bacalao salad), rich duck confit cazuelita, sinfully satisfying foie gras and goat cheese empanadas, a trio of raw fish and meat tartares, tempura-battered soft-shell crab with spicy chipotle aioli, and other delectable dishes. The lounge offers weekday happy-hour specials with a wide selection of drinks between $5 and $8. But most of the prices are as high-end as the décor.