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The Atrium is a majestic restaurant space with limestone walls, lofty columns, and a dizzyingly high skylight. Steamed oysters with plum wine and ginger vinaigrette is the most sparkling of the starters. Jasmine tea-smoked sugar cane chicken and Chinese barbecue strip steak, the latter accompanied by a kick-ass chimichurrilike jade sauce, are by far the best entrées, though, not coincidentally, also the most caloric. Also recommended: the less-fattening Caribbean grouper en papillote. Service can be spotty. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner.