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Sushi Chef's plain façade and restaurant-in-the-middle-of-a-Japanese-market interior give no indication it serves perhaps the most extensive selection of Japanese dishes around. The encyclopedia-size menu lists more than 200 dishes, from all manner of sushi to tempura, rice and noodle bowls, salads, and entrées. Fish is generally of high quality -- though two pieces of questionably fresh toro sneaked onto our plate during one visit -- and preparations can be inventive. Try the translucent cuts of hamachi topped with a jalapeño slice in tangy yuzu sauce and tempura-fried uni. Standard tempura is better than average too; delicate, flaky sea bass in an elegant yuzu butter sauce is the kind of dish you'd find on the menu at Nobu -- for at least $10 more.