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Sumi Yakitori is an unlikely Japanese restaurant in Brickell. It's a peculiar place, furnished with an open kitchen and festooned with bottles of booze. Sautéed tofu skin ($14), whole deep-fried quail ($15), and skewered chicken hearts fill the laminated menu, half of which is written in Japanese. Don't be deterred by those things. Instead, try it all. Order seemingly simple chicken items, such as breasts or wings, alongside more adventurous things, like gizzards and hearts. They're all treated with the same respect: grilled until their flesh trickles moisture and oozes the tongue-tickling aroma of smoke. Indulge in the bacon-wrapped quail eggs too. Sprinkled with nori, sesame seeds, and dried bonito, each bite brims with delectable, mouth-drying saltiness. In a neighborhood rife with middling chains and highfalutin bars, Sumi Yakitori is a bastion of honesty -- a shrine to the Japanese tradition of grilled meat on a stick.