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There are some fine nonpizza items, like carpaccio with avocado and hearts of palm, at this informal sprig of Lincoln Road's long-time upscale Italian fave Tiramesu. But as long as Spris's chef (from Naples, where they know from pizza) keeps producing such great thin-crusted pies from his genuine wood-burning oven, we'll probably never try anything else. The basic Margherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella, fresh basil) and tomatoless "white" Rustica (Parmesan, mozzarella, cured olives, garlic, mushrooms) are both outstanding, owing especially to top-quality cheeses and superior spicing. But the absolute must-not-miss pie is the Porcini, topped with full-flavored tomato sauce, creamy mozzarella, a generous quantity of fresh porcini mushrooms, and -- as Italy's most cutting-edge pizzerias are now doing -- crunchy arugula thrown on after baking, making this pizza seem almost like health food.