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When non-Japanese restaurants, most commonly Thai joints, tack on sushi bars for purely commercial reasons, the sushi is generally either pretty lowest-common-denominator or pretty silly: a pedestrian selection of fish; lots of rolls featuring cream cheese. But not at Siam River. Though the Thai dishes are as good as anywhere else in town, the sushi bar is a delightful surprise; a dramatic revamping in the fall of 2001 transformed the usual tacked-on afterthought into the source of some of the most creative, and unquestionably freshest, sushi in South Florida. A daily-changing specials menu features all the usual fishy suspects, plus unusual flown-in seafood like aka kamasu (Japanese red barracuda). If it's in season don't miss broiled fresh Florida stone crab sushi in a circle of toasted nori seaweed, topped with melted uni "sauce" that looks like grilled cheese but tastes like savory warm seafood custard. Beyond-sushi small plates are ingenious, too -- stuff like a jalapeño-spiked salmon/avocado tartar, served to scoop up with crisp chips that look like potato chips but are actually thinly sliced, spiced, and deep-fried grouper slices.