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Miami's prettiest new restaurant isn't in South Beach or downtown Miami. It has a water view, but it's not of Biscayne Bay or the Atlantic. Seasalt and Pepper, which from its inception has hosted celebrities and a daily two-hour-plus wait, sits on the Miami River. The scene at the airy white boathouse rumored to have once been owned by the billionaire founder of Trans World Airlines, Howard Hughes, is straight out of Saint-Tropez. Men in gold-rimmed aviator sunglasses and unbuttoned shirts pluck stone crab and lobster meat from hulking claws. Tall, slender women lift flutes of champagne to their pouty lips. From the kitchen emerges a sampling of Mediterranean-tinged dishes that range from house-made pastas to seafood casseroles cooked in a 1,000-degree wood-burning oven. Visit on the weekend, when you can sit on the dock and watch 60-foot yachts drop off their owners for a decadent lunch.