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This fixture of the Key West waterfront is like so many Keys eateries -- funky, utterly unpretentious, beloved by locals yet often swarmed by tourists, and dishing up island staples of conch chowder and fritters, fish sandwiches, coconut shrimp, burgers, and the like. The difference is that the food at Schooner is actually good. Ingredients are fresh and of high quality, execution is careful and precise, and the cheery staff makes eating here a pleasure. Underneath the Keys-iness of it all is a smartly run restaurant, which doesn't detract a bit from the fun of hanging out at old, weathered wooden tables just a fritter's throw from the water, as you suck down a cold beer and a few plump oysters and watch the din of the outside world fade into insignificance.