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Sam's 50-seat dining room is a clean, handsome throwback to delis from days gone by. The food is hit-or-miss kosher, which might mean a flimsy and rubbery corned beef sandwich or a pleasingly plump pastrami on rye (which, with the extra two dollars for lean meat, will cost you $14.25). Stuffed cabbage is a sure winner, with its savory chopped beef interior and a raisin-studded sauce seamlessly suspended between sweet and sour. Velvety-smooth hummus also lands in the plus column, as does a buttery-crusted potato knish, and heartwarming matzo ball soup with snippets of chicken and carrots. Regrets include overcooked rare roast beef, and chopped liver so muddy-looking it can only make one wonder: Haven't the Jews suffered enough?