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This cozy, unpretentious 42-seat eatery has spawned quite a loyal following since opening in 1980. The nautical décor is comfortable, but most patrons come for honest, homestyle Peruvian seafood dishes at reasonable prices. It's best to set sail with ceviche, which in keeping with Lima tradition gets served with sturdy hunks of boiled potato, sweet potato, and corn on the side. Ceviche mixto combines octopus, shrimp, squid, and corvina with a mild citrus kiss lipsticked with lime juice, cilantro, and red onion. Another crowd-pleasing appetizer comes via a platter of impeccably fried calamari and corvina. Other traditional Peruvian cuisine includes a Creole-style cau cau fricassee of mussels, clams, scallops, squid, and shrimp simmered with turmeric and currylike spices; and the Chinese-influenced arroz chaufa, which is fried rice stocked with shellfish. Don't miss trying the tacu-tacu, a pan-sized, pan-fried patty of rice mixed with mashed red beans and paired with an impeccably grilled fillet of trout -- pink, pristine, and delicate.