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After all is said about the Rusty Pelican's $7 million renovation, the waterfront view from every seat -- whether through clear bay windows or from outdoor tables illuminated by fire pits -- still steals the show. The menu is contemporary American (implying a global influence) and, rather surprisingly, not very seafood-centric -- in fact, except a few shellfish offerings, main-course fish choices encompass only local sea bass, local red snapper, and Columbia River salmon (which is rolled with foie gras). If you choose to have a fish straightforwardly grilled, it's down to just salmon or sea bass. Be that as it may, seafood lovers have options. Starters include a handful of sushi and sashimi selections, lobster crudo, sea scallop tiradito, fried calamari, ahi tuna tacos, and sea bass ceviche. The last, served in an oval tin set in crushed ice, lavishes luscious chunks of sea bass tossed with choclo corn kernels, red onion, small cubes of sweet potato, cilantro, lime juice, and aji amarillo -- which yields a nice bite in the back of the throat. Black sea bass fillets and fried whole red snapper were fresh and satisfying anchors to main-course plates, but sides on both were disappointing. Poached Long Island duck breast -- served as three sushi-size cylinders that were tender, juicy, and boasting rich duck flavor -- was the only real eye-opener we sampled. Desserts include a thin rectangular slice of key lime pie and baked Alaska with a soft, fresh cap of bronzed meringue over rock-hard cookies-and-cream ice cream. So much about the Rusty Pelican has changed, but the only real rationale for dining here remains, as always, the view.