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Some stars shine brighter after they burn out. Recovered from a 1995 fire, the French-rooted New American kitchen sparkles. Among the appetizers, choose from pté of the day served with onion relish, plump sautéed escargots, or steamed mussels. Long Island duckling in a caramelized orange sauce and rack of Australian spring lamb on a pinot noir reduction are entrées that highlight the talents of New Renaissance chef Hendrik Cornelissen. For dessert, a puffy chocolate soufflé eclipses all other sweets. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner.