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The cuisine here is firmly rooted in the northwestern provinces of Italy -- notably the two titans of that region's gastronomy, Piedmont and Lombardy. And it's cooked up by Nicola and Fabrizio Carro, identical 30-year-old Piedmontese twins who possess all the right notions about what constitutes good eating. To wit: exquisitely delicious, fontina-fluffed ravioli drizzled with butter and white truffle oil. And tenderly braised veal with cipollini onions melted in vermouth. And luscious lasagna featuring spinach pasta lightly layered with beef ragout, mozzarella cheese, and only a touch of tomato sauce -- as identical to lasagna found in Milan as Fabrizio is to Nicola. Co-owner and Monferrato vintner Nicola Schön has assembled Quattro's expensive, all-Italian, 300-bottle wine list, which includes vibrant varietals from Molise and other relatively unplumbed regions, as well as superior selections from his own Colle Manora vineyard. A variety of Italy's regional cheeses is also offered. Quattro is committed to authentically re-creating rustic Italian cuisine and does so at a reasonable price -- pastas run from $17 to $19, most entrées $22 to $27. You're going to have to make reservations well in advance for this popular newcomer.