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Much is being made of PrimeBlue's nontraditional steak house décor, and the airy, two-tiered waterfront room is a welcome change. The cuisine is brighter than steak the house norm too. In fact although aged prime beef is at the core of the menu, focus is equally on land and sea. The real hook is that all fish are wild-caught, and meat -- natural, corn-fed, antibiotic- and hormone-free -- comes from Brandt Beef in California. Stick to the straight-on preparations of either, rather than experimenting with more complex treatments such as tea-brined chicken, which arrived smeared with what looked and tasted like straight tomato paste. Ah, but the steaks are dandy. Especially big cuts such as T-bone, Porterhouse, or bone-in rib eye, the last a plush hunk of juicy meat crisply crusted from an 1800-degree hickory-burning grill and imbued with more smoke after its brief spell in an oak-fired oven. Seafood dishes, including Block Island swordfish, Alaskan King salmon, and good old Florida pompano, are presented in ideal fashion: wood-grilled with half of a grilled lemon on the side. We could smell the hickory of the whole branzino, which was filleted tableside; it flaunted sweet white flakes of fresh fish. More than 350 wine selections represent various venerable vineyards from around the globe, including the much sought-after Super Tuscans. More than 40 wines are offered by the glass, and eight by the half bottle. PrimeBlue will take a bite out of your wallet, but it delivers a lofty standard of steaks, fish, and service for the money.