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CLOSED. If you have any doubts about Pizza Volante's philosophy, the servers clear things up in black and white on the back of their T-shirts, which demand, in capital letters, "EAT MOZZARELLA." It's best not to argue with that philosophy - especially when the results are face-meltingly delicious. The creamy white stuff is front and center in the best dishes. There's a savory side note in the "Bianca" pizza, where bufala mozzarella is paired with tart fontina cheese, Chenel goat cheese, arugula, and thyme (for $14). Or check out the fresh local mozzarella that's the main attraction in an eye-poppingly fresh Caprese salad with organic tomatoes, unfiltered oil, and balsamic vinegar ($9). Tucked into a tight sunlit space in Wynwood and lined with long communal tables, Volante offers a laid-back vibe to go with first-class gourmet pizza. If you're not in the mood for a pie, Volante also prepares - and delivers - nightly specials such as organic chicken cacciatore with broccoli rabe for $10 and braised short ribs with potato gnocchi for $12. Keep your eye on the dairy draw, though. There's also a fresh mozzarella bar - which boasts the aforementioned bufala and a variety from Campagna, Italy - for $12. Those T-shirts don't lie.