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If you like Chinese food but are not especially excited at the prospect of dining in a Chinese restaurant, this is the place for you. Chang's resembles Houston's, and as with most casual-upscale franchises (there are some 130 Chang's in America), the room is defined by rich, polished woods and anchored by an often-crowded bar crowned with television screens. Yet it's easy to muster enthusiasm over the uniformly fresh, clean, and flavorful cuisine, formulaic as it may be. Hot-and-sour soup contains proper pepper and tang. Spicy chicken slivers and crunchy vermicelli noodles are cooly contrasted when curled within caps of crisp iceberg lettuce leaves. The main meins (chow and lo), moo goo gai pan, beef with broccoli, and all of your favorites are up for grabs, including a fine chow fun with thin, flat rice noodles; tender strips of beef; onions; peppers; and a gingerly touch of ginger. Mu shu pork was tasty, too, even if the scrawny scraps of pork were a bit difficult to find. More adventuresome diners can scroll the menu's back page, which is devoted to a singular regional cuisine that changes every few months. Other factors distinguishing Chang's from your neighborhood Chinese joint include a smart wine list and big, gooey American desserts. Prices aren't Chinatown cheap, but most main dishes run a reasonable $12 to $15.