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Osteria has been serving fine Italian cuisine since 1987; dining here is still something of a 20th-century experience. But this South Beach favorite has retained the best attributes formerly fashioned at fine-dining establishments without subscribing to the more regrettable ones. For instance, service is executed peerlessly by professional staff members who have been with the restaurant for a long time; they know all the regulars by name and treat first-timers as though they were regulars too. Chef/partner Martin Perez sticks to textbook renditions of old-school favorites. An eggplant Parmesan starter is prepared the way Italians in a Brooklyn neighborhood might make it (excepting some zucchini slices slipped into the mix). Pasta e fagioli is pretty much like what sits on rustic Tuscan tables. Homemade pastas such as veal ravioli with pancetta and sage, and pappardelle with porcini mushrooms are but two of a number of pasta specials that stand out not only for solid execution but also for unusually high price: $28 to $34. Regular-menu pastas such as alla vongole (clams) or puttanesca go for an only slightly more reasonable $19; main courses, which include hefty steaks, veal chops, and seafood specials, range from $30 to $42. Osteria is an expensive joint, but the cuisine is consistent, and the service and personal attention are unequaled on the Beach.