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Most people order either the flawlessly seasoned falafels or the shawarma, real slices of lamb and turkey piled atop each other on a rotating spit. Whichever you choose, it's worth paying the extra dollar and substituting a larger, fluffier laffa bread for the pita -- besides tasting better and holding more food, the laffa is far less likely to sprout a leak of tahini onto your favorite T-shirt. Top seeds among the numerous freshly prepared salads are a creamy and char-flavored baba ghannouj and a hummus whose consistency is neither too wet from excessive oil, nor dry and pasty like the commercial stuff. The Middle East combo includes both of these spreads along with tabbouleh, tahini, and a mildly spicy Turkish salad of diced tomato, onion, celery, peppers, and parsley. Two other specialties of note: imported Israeli pickles cured in salt, not vinegar, and accompanied by olives and hot peppers; and the Lebanese ful medames, warm fava beans, tahini, a piquant red sauce, and chopped hard-boiled egg served over hummus.