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At most Thai restaurants with tacked-on sushi bars, the sushi tastes like the commercially motivated afterthought it is. Here the sushi is extraordinary. None of the fish is frozen, and the dedicated chef/owner makes two trips daily to nearby marinas for the freshest local catches. Even the most simple and traditional sushi and sashimi are, therefore, impeccable, but most highly recommended are the chef's specials: Nobu-style nouvelle dishes like miso-marinated, broiled black cod; elegantly diced tartares of toro, hamachi, and salmon; new-style sashimi (slightly seared with drizzles of hot oil and garnished with garlic purée, ginger, and sesame); and white fish tiradito, dressed with aji chilies, cilantro, and yuzu juice. The décor is equally appealing -- sophisticated, striking, and stylish, without a touch of Asian kitsch.