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"Globally inspired, seasonally wired" is the motto at Norman Van Aken's Coral Gables restaurant. The first part is true: This bill of fare is all over the map. Instead of doing a 360 and returning to his fine-dining roots, or starting from zero and redefining his cuisine altogether, Norman and team have combined the two notions and come up with a discombobulated 180 - which means that a $39 main plate of rib eye steak mingles on the menu with an $8 small plate of crispy chicken wings. Global mixes can work, but here they don't quite cohere - although most plates are filled with fresh, enjoyable flavors. We especially liked the tender duck meatballs; meaty pozole verde; in-house charcuterie; hamburger with ropa vieja; and grilled swordfish steak over paella-style Calasparra rice. Desserts such as salty pecan-caramel bites with dark chocolate sorbet hit the spot too. Ambiance is warm and handsome, service is friendly and strong, wine is fairly priced, and the food is consistently satisfying. But concerning the last: Is this really the best Miami's most famous chef - the Beard-winning daddy of New World cuisine - can do?