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The sushi bar at this Japanese/Peruvian fusion café fleshes out fish that is fresh and satisfying, if not distinctive enough to keep Nobu Matsuhisa awake at night. "Traditional" rolls (California, spicy tuna, eel-avocado) are pristinely presented, as are a dozen "specialty" rolls, nearly all of which wrap rice around shellfish. Ceviches are similarly pure and straightforward -- try the yellowtail version, whose succulent squares of fish are refreshingly braced with citrus and ginger. The non-sushi/ceviche selections are also good, especially appetizers of fried oysters with brittle crusts and pudding-soft centers, as well as crunchy vegetable tempura. Winners among the entrées include a slightly spicy Japanese curry sauce with rice, and long strands of chewy udon noodles pan-fried with plush pieces of chicken breast. Prices are more than fair: Starters and ceviches cost $7 to $11; rice and noodles run $10 to $14; sushi rolls go for $5 to $15; and entrées are $17 to $24. Moshi is a neat neighborhood restaurant whose ambiance and service are warmly welcoming (thanks in part to co-partner Yani Yuhara's amiable presence) and the food affording excellent value.