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Like a parable, it's as if a thunderous voice from above spoke to a lost (and most likely hungry) tribe wandering in the brash wilderness of south Miami-Dade and said: "You must build a restaurant, serve the food of your people there, and make it extra tasty!" Because at Lots of Lox it's all there: grandma-approved matzo-ball soup, crisp potato pancakes, bagels, blintzes, white fish, starchy knishes, and mounds of perfect pastrami. Sandwiches include the schlemiel ($10.95) stuffed with turkey, salami, Swiss cheese, and thousand island dressing and the East Side ($10.45) filled with roast beef, tomato, onion, and (what am I?) chopped liver. If only the miracle of food this good happened more often.