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Lolita's red-velvet embossed walls, gothic candelabras, and 100-plus bottles of tequila locked in a cage bespeak bordello -- and that's before you even notice the studded black leather couches on the patio. Rock music, which gets played loudly, boosts the bacchanal factor, as does a complimentary bowl of grapefruit-mint granitas drenched with an optional shot of tequila. A basket of freshly fried corn chips and three dips comes next. Lolita is really more of a bar-to-table than farm-to-table kind of place, meaning the quality of tequilas, margaritas, and such is likely given as much attention as the sourcing of pork. A "Lolita" margarita ($12) is just right, made with Don Julio Blanco, Grand Marnier, fresh lime juice, cane syrup, and a squeeze of grapefruit. Shots of top-shelf tequilas are offered too -- the extensive agave listing categorized into taste characteristics such as "gentle vanilla & cream" and "hot-pepper and smoke." That said, the food is better than one might expect. Hits: fresh guacamole; tacos, especially the pulled pork and brisket with gravy; meaty pork ribs in coffee-chocolate sauce; and chicken tinga flautas. Main courses are in the $21 to $27 range, except filet mignon ($32) and bone-in rib eye ($36). The rest of the menu items run $9 to $17. That's pricey for Mexican but modest in the context of South Beach.