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At Lippi in Brickell, you should really eat your vegetables. The handsome restaurant offers a Mediterranean-inspired menu that features $75 Dover sole and $30-per-ounce Kobe beef. But perhaps more interesting, it proffers roasted baby carrots and turnips flecked with coarse sea salt that share a bowl with tomatoes, basil, and green beans. The dish is vibrant, fresh, and lovely. Philippe Ruiz is the man behind these veggies. The seasoned chef once ran the kitchen at Palme d'Or -- the French fine-dining restaurant at the Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables. Two years ago, he left that post, and now he's at Lippi, a place founded by Tunu Puri -- one of the partners behind Zuma. Ruiz is cooking food that isn't meant to be fashionable. He offers textbook gougères stuffed with oozing béchamel as an amuse-bouche. His cured hamachi, sliced thinly and served over a block of salt, gets a kick from trout roe, ají amarillo sauce, and espelette peppers. Grilled, perfectly cooked duck breast is arranged neatly alongside cranberry marmalade and roasted baby apples. Scented with nutmeg, his polenta is arguably among the best in Miami. At Lippi, Ruiz proves his prowess extends beyond the cookery of France.