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This 45-seat bistro resonates with Old World charm, reverberates with robust conversations, and serves textbook French country fare in a rapidly pulsed, relaxingly paced manner. Start with a faultlessly prepared French onion soup, or scrumptious homemade pté de campagne encircled by niçoise olives, cornichons, and sweet onion confit. Help yourself to freshly sliced baguettes and consider one of the affordably priced wines. If fish be your wish, choose from salmon, snapper, tuna, and Chilean sea bass, most roasted or pan seared and served with simple accompaniments: sea bass with artichokes and tomato confit, snapper with fresh herbs and ratatouille. Meats and poultry also are deliciously direct; standouts include roasted rack of lamb atop pistou-imbued white beans, beef stew around a nest of homemade fettuccine, and farm-raised chicken fricassee in an opulent red-wine vinegar sauce. Generously portioned pies, prepared on the premises, provide no letdown. Try the raspberry tart in crême anglaise or tarte Tatin luxuriating in a pool of cream.