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You'd think more restaurants in this food capital of the Caribbean would know how to fry a green plantain. Yet all too often, they're too big, too thickly sliced, not ripe enough. And they're never hot; you find yourself staring at a flavorless, lukewarm pile of plantain pucks. The ones at Laguna always come out sizzling and are made from plantains just ripe enough to leave the insides tender without crossing the line into plátanos maduros. This bustling, low-priced Cuban spot has plenty else to recommend it, but its tostones are without peer. Ask for una tasita de mojo al lado.