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Eyebrows were raised when La Gloutonnerie, a pricey French brasserie with a popular sister branch in Mexico City, moved into the former haunt of a pricey French brasserie with a popular sister branch in Mexico City. Still, the cuisine of chef Christian Testa, attentive service, and an attractive dining room ought to help Gloutonnerie in its quest. Certainly a taste of thin shrimp carpaccio fat with flavor from peaches will make you feel optimistic. So will subsequent courses such as beef bourguignon with a sauce so deep and rich it looks black; sautéed turbot with a textbook beurre blanc; and crisp duck confit in plum sauce. Black Forest cake and soufflé for two further reassure Gloutonnerie's staying power. This expensive French establishment is courting the customer in admirable fashion. Let's hope that's good enough.