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One of the best ways to get a taste of the way things used to be is by heading to the Miami River, as few areas have retained more of their old-timey flavor -- and there's no better stretch of water to sit by than the one that flows past Joe's, a vintage downtown seafood market and restaurant where you can leave the skyscrapers behind and indulge in some mighty tasty seafood. Munch on complimentary fish spread and crackers as you pick from a multiplicity of fish and shellfish prepared in all manner of style: grilled, broiled, or fried; in garlic sauce, green sauce, or wine sauce; à la diabla, Thermidor, or paella. Prices are fair enough, most dinners ranging from $13.95 to $22.95; only shrimp or lobster stuffed with Alaska king crab and Canadian scallops and a surf and turf of filet mignon and lobster tail cost more than $25. Entrées come with green salad or grouper soup, and yellow rice or fries. Desserts include key lime pie, cheesecake, tres leches, and flan.