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Doesn't much matter if the night belongs to Saturday or Monday, this neighborhood gem gets packed to the point that an out-of-towner might surmise this to be the only food joint for miles. What it really is, though, is one of very few casual, unassuming restaurants on South Beach that offers affordable American fare without any fuss. The menu offers a breadth of selections common to coffee shops -- soups, salads, starters, sandwiches, pizzas, and entrees (42 choices in all, plus 14 desserts). There are global tangents such as gazpacho, Thai vegetarian stew, and rigatoni alla Bolognese, but it's the cuisine from the U.S. of A. that is most consistently A-O.K. This includes thin, quivering cutlets of tender calves' liver with frizzled fried onions, bacon strips, creamy mashed potatoes and crunchy green beans. Juicy, grilled skirt steak and moist, firm meatloaf are prepared with similarly flavorful aplomb, as is an ideally thick bacon cheeseburger, served with thin, crispy fries. Skip the banana cream pie (not as good as it sounds) and try the steamy hot cherry cobbler instead. Service is solid and accomodating. In fact, the emphasis on making customers feel comfortable and at home has as much to do with Allen's success as the fare.