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You can watch executive chef Jorge Sanchez and his kitchen crew at work in a gleaming stainless-steel kitchen; the rest of the tastefully appointed space is bathed in beige, gracefully draped, and soothingly illuminated. Don't miss the suckling baby pig, well-spiced and succulently confited in its fat until the crust absolutely crackles. Bouncy baby lamb chops will appeal to more conventional carnivores, as surely will the 35-ounce, $68 bone-in rib eye steak - which is for two people but an unusually large cut nonetheless. A dessert of scintillating lime sorbet? Hoo-boy. And hooray for the genteel service.