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Hakkasan is drop-dead gorgeous, a dusky Oriental lair of dining alcoves seductively lighted by Chinese lanterns and separated by walnut and teak lattice. While Alan Yau's London Hakkasan has earned a Michelin star, many of the dishes here are similar to those found at any other Chinese joint. Just much better. Among the many standouts on this extensive menu are roast duck breast with mango - the meat bursting with five-spice flavor, the fruit perfectly ripe, a light lemon sauce adeptly cutting the sweet richness; jasmine tea-smoked pork ribs, whose soft, aromatic meat slips off the row of bones like silk kimonos from a chorus line of concubines; and a juicy wedge of silver cod with a seductive champagne and honey sauce. For a light dessert, try ripe berries semi-draped in gelatinous Prosecco, with a melon-drenched quenelle of cantaloupe sorbet on top. A petite pandan leaf soufflé with coconut sorbet is a knockout as well. Starters are priced high (most $12 to $18), and there are a number of expensive entrées involving seafoods and beef, but there is also a sizable menu's worth of main courses ranging from $18 to $30 - expensive for humble Chinese food, but this Chinese food is anything but. Whether our local Hakkasan can ever rise to Michelin status is Mr. Yau's problem; we're just happy to be among the privileged few to get a taste of his Cantonese crowd pleasers.