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Unless you fancy eating at a two-seater Formica counter facing a wall six inches away from your mouth, this tiny place is strictly take-out. But some of this humble hideaway's dishes are amazingly ambitious, even authentic. Double-yellow gourmet chow mein, for instance, is not the usual Chinese-American overcooked, overthickened glop topped with factory-produced dry noodles but genuine Cantonese-style : pan-fried fresh noodles with a tasty topping of stir-fried beef, chicken, shrimp, and many assorted vegetables. (Ask the friendly chefs to pack the noodles and topping in separate cartons, to avoid soggy saturation of the noodles on your way home.) Tangy-sweet eggplant in black Chinese vinaigrette and spicy Szechuan-sauced "fish laid on greens" also are winners. And two appetizers make perfect party and/or TV sports-watching nibbles: honey-garlic chicken wings and fried won tons stuffed with smoked salmon, spinach, and cream cheese -- chips and dip all in one.