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This northern outpost of two-decades-old Peruvian restaurant El Francesco, renowned as one of Lima's top seafood spots, fills a niche -- change "niche" to "humongous hole" -- left gaping by Miami's other Peruvian eateries, tasty though the food at some of these luncheonette-looking places may be. Namely it's upscale. The food's a dress-up version of usual Miami Peruvian fare, too, dramatically magnifying all the characteristic-of-the-country Asian and European fusion elements that make most chefs feel Peru's cuisine is the most interesting in Latin America. A must is the ceviche or tiradito (ceviche sans onion) sampler, a choice of fish or shellfish with all four of Francesco's sauces: traditional citrus marinade, garnished with Peruvian corn; mild aji amarillo, Peru's distinctive yellow pepper; slightly hotter, complex rocoto; and a creamy house vinaigrette. Otherwise, avoid all dishes described as "gratin" and diners can be sure of a uniquely enjoyable meal.