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In striving for salubriousness, Essensia uses sustainable seafood, hormone-free meats, and organically grown products from local purveyors. Reasonably priced wines are tendered too, categorized as either sustainable, organic, biodynamic, or some combination thereof. Many are offered by the glass, and diners can partake of a flight trio for as little as $10. Food prices fly a little higher. Main courses are within reason: fish dishes $25 to $29, meats $24 to $34. Appetizers, though, are $14 to $22, and desserts go for $10. It adds up to an expensive meal, but also a light and tasty one. Definitely sample the salads, such as one composed of organic orchid and nasturtium leaves, baby greens, tomatoes, popped hominy, blackberries, and fresh mamey -- all lavished with a tart/sweet key lime-lavender-honey vinaigrette. The five-spice lamb loin appetizer, another recommended starting point, is plated with hummus, tapenade, and pita triangles. Seared sardines are good too. Entrées can be hit or miss. Miso-laquered North Atlantic black cod is one of the hits. Pastry chef Gail Goetsch focuses on delicacy, not decadence. The apricot tart -- moist half-moons of the baked fruit arranged atop a buttery crust, with a scoop of ginger-almond ice cream on the side -- was terrific. Main courses need to be tightened, especially concerning accompaniments, but Essensia is otherwise an essentially solid and distinctively healthful restaurant.