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DeVito has been quoted as saying the fare here (excepting Kobe steaks, caviar, and such) is like the Italian food he used to eat in his hometown of Asbury Park, New Jersey. There is a homespun, family-style authenticity to some of the cuisine, but what would his old South Jersey friends say about paying $20 for a meatball appetizer? Not much, probably, because their mouths would be stuffed with bites from soft, light meat capped with whipped ricotta cheese and plunked into a spicy, fire-engine-red sauce. Once they saw that the three humongous meatballs, if each were halved, could easily satisfy six diners, there would be no quibbling over price, either. Unfortunately almost everything else that is overpriced will feed only one. An eight-ounce center-cut A-5 Kobe rib eye fillet is $190. The same size cut of American Kobe goes for $145. Nebraska corn-fed steaks from the Stock Yards of Chicago, each rubbed with "DeVito Dust" (bread crumbs, seasonings, fresh herbs), run $38 to $72.