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Dining at DB is a classy experience from start to finish. Service is professional, and the waiters are well informed on the cuisine -- orchestrated by executive chef Jarrod Verbiak, who has worked with Daniel Boulud for nearly a decade. Sommelier John Mayfield entertains an encyclopedic knowledge of the wines that compose a 30-plus page list (a blend of classic French and contemporary boutique). Steamy, eggy cheese gougères kick-start the meal, which can then be taken in any number of directions: platters of assorted fresh shellfish; assiettes, or plates of regional bar snacks (Basque, Provençal, Lyonnaise); and a host of soups, salads, and appetizers. Favorites include chilled vichyssoise greened and lightened with lettuce, and pté de campagne -- a coarse, fresh, pork-dominant slice crusted with peppery, pastrami-like seasonings. A few pastas are available in starter portions as well; try the ricotta cavatelli with fennel-flecked sausage. Among the entrées, bread-crusted pompano wowed, as did seared sea scallops with shellfish over saffron-soaked fregola. The original DB burger of ground sirloin, short ribs, and foie gras is the menu signature, perhaps famed as much for its $32 price as for the decadent flavors. Light desserts such as lemon gratin or a basket of madeleines provide a light finish. A finale more fitting of France would be by way of selected cheeses -- a genteel end to an elegant dinner.