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What a great idea: Fresh, prepared-to-order Chinese food culled from high-quality ingredients, priced at an excellent value, and served in a small, sparse, Asian-inspired dining room (with a smattering of outdoor seats too). Joshua Marcus is the man behind the concept, as well as the man behind the counter who does much of the cooking. By all means, start with the dumplings and egg rolls. The latter, two to a serving, are larger, heftier, fresher, and better than others around town. Lush dumplings are delicious too; try the basil-based jade-green ones that wrap around a vibrant chop of organic chicken. Chow fun noodles, made on the premises, are as broad a cut as you're likely to see and thick with flavor, especially in tandem with bok choy, onions, peppers, garlic, and ginger. Entrées are a choose-your-protein/choose-your-sauce proposition. The former includes shrimp, chicken, steak, tofu, and fish du jour. Each comes with brown or white rice and costs $14, except tofu ($12) and market-priced fish (branzino was $23). We liked the giant, juicy organic chicken breast and a generous serving of Black Angus steak; our favorite sauce was a well-herbed green curry with pinball-size roasted purple potatoes and bok choy. Don't forget to try the 24-hour braised beef bánh mì sandwich. The beverage of choice is beer, whose dozen eclectic bottles range from Dogfish Head to Dogtoberfest. And for dessert, the coconut tartlet spiked with key lime jelly is one Chinese-restaurant treat worth hanging around for.