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Nowhere are the changes overtaking the Keys more evident than at this minuscule, finely appointed restaurant. For 20 years, the space was occupied by Manny & Isa's, known for its homey Cuban fare and key lime pie. Now the chef and proprietor is transplanted Nantucket restaurateur Jean-Charles Berruet, who left the frigid North and headed south to cook his classically oriented, slimmed-down French cuisine. Foie gras with dried fruit compote is appropriately rich and decadent, but coq au vin is light, its tender bird plucked from a pot at your table and served with mushrooms and bacon shards. There is even a selection of artisanal cheeses and delightfully airy soufflés, plus a wine list that's a trove of exciting French and Californian bottles.