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Since this "Little House of Texas" opened in 1987, Cesar Berrones and his family have not stopped serving heaping portions of Tex-Mex fare. Starters are composed of the Americanized pleasers you might expect at Señor Frog's, but are prepared with more aplomb -- and more chilis. A fiesta sampler of quesadilla, flauta, tamal, and taco with beans, guacamole, sour cream, cheese dip, lettuce, and tomato is large enough to be shared (though it costs only $8.95). What separates Casita Tejas from the pack is their superior seafood dishes: deep-fried whole red snapper is one of the better catches, as are the eight giant shrimp grilled with garlic and chili guajillo. Two other classics done right: steak fajitas are sizzling, and chicken mole possesses just the right touch of chocolate, which acts as a velvet glove against the fiery fingers of smoked chilis. Desserts are rarely the high point of Mex eateries, but Casita's "chimi" is cheery: a large flour tortilla fried with apples inside and crowned with caramel sauce and Cool Whip.