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The dining rooms in this Gables restaurant are richly colored and quite lovely, the waitstaff dapperly dressed and professional, the plateware distinctive and bright. The mostly Latin clientele is well heeled too. Chef Willy Hernandez's cuisine is about the only thing that doesn't excel at Caramelo, though it looks pretty -- unfortunately the result of a consistent kitchen emphasis on style over substance. There are some worthwhile dishes to sample, like a boneless quail starter stuffed with congri and garnished with triangles of Serrano ham; and main courses such as rosemary-and-thyme-crusted rack of lamb in a tangy aged sherry demi-glace; and a confit of duck leg served with lean slices of magret breast. Mashed potatoes and unseasoned baby vegetables accompany just about everything, which is boring and surprising in light of the estimable cost of dining here. When chef Hernandez realizes his potential, so too will Caramelo.