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The fascination with tiny trattorias continues, judging by the business at this 40-seater. Though the service is warm and personable, homemade bread, a decent house wine, and a pleasant selection of Italian meat and fish staples, such as osso buco and salmon with sautéed radicchio and grapes, are the real draws. You can eat your fill without padding the bill, especially if you stick to wonderful baked pastas such as spinach-and-cheese cannelloni and meaty lasagna. Daily specials can be misleadingly pricey, so be sure to ask before ordering. Lunch and dinner.