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Pleasant Northern Italian restaurant with a number of French nuances. Start with soups as good as their pretty names promise: minestrone Genovese, tortellini in brodo, or zuppa maitata. The shrimp fra diavolo is spunky; the veal dishes are exquisite, and you won't have to take out a second mortgage to pay the check. Cuisine is classical but with a flair -- the chef has a penchant for Pernod (notably with pears, as a grand finale).